Pachuco

Paucho   416-466-8006    pachuco.ca    closed Mon & Tues, open dinner wed-sun 6pm to 12am

Walking down the steps into this resto, one is dazzled by a dimly lit, sexy looking hideaway.  The cozy room seats just 32.   A caffeine like rush of excitement pulses through me and I can’t wait to see the menu.

I order drinks first, a traditional margarita and a Mexican Cosmo.  The margaritas only come blended, which I normally detest, but persuaded by the server I ordered one.   I find, typically, when drinks are blended with ice they become heavy and lack flavour; here the tart drinks taste light and refreshing.   The Mexican Cosmo is made with agave silver tequila, cointreau, fresh lime and delicate hibiscus flower, making it the perfect “I’m on vacation” drink.

To accompany my wicked cocktails I ordered a traditional, blue cheese and smoked trout guacamole sampler. The traditional was garlicky and rather spicy; the blue cheese needed mixing – dip once and get no blue, dip twice and get all blue.  My favorite, of the three, was the mildly sweet, buttery smoked trout – simply marvelous.  Salty, house-made Totopos and a trio of salsas include: a traditional red with a star fruit twist, a fiery light-tasting green and an amusing chipotle honey – all interesting, none held my fancy.

Ceviche Tia Mali looks promising with star fruit, tequila, and blue marlin but is heavily garnished with mint that overpowered the entire dish.  I also ordered the Taquitos estilo Bajas, fried fish topped with Mexican style coleslaw salad, Chipotle honey and Green tomatillo salsa. I found this dish lacked attention and flavour.

Overall I found most of the dishes to be very spicy, overshadowing delicate flavours. The drinks, the décor, and the service impressed me – it’s just the food that needs a fine tuning.
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