Porzia 647.342.5776 closed tues & wed http://porzia.ca/
After a long battle, this southern Italian restaurant is finally open. The modern dining room of this little eatery is filled with boisterous laughter, and the shaking of cocktails. Upbeat tunes play in the background, and the menu, though creative, still has a few kinks to iron out. High energy servers are knowledgeable and friendly. Porzia is a nice addition to the already star-studded Ossington strip.
True Romance ($12) – a lovely cocktail – with Aperol, Cazadores, Reposado, Amaro Montenegro and Cava is bitter-sweet with a slightly acidic herbal finish. Hamachi crudo with radish and saffron ($16) is a work of art, however, is missing something in the balance and flavour. True to their southern roots, the best dish is chicken liver agnolotti ($16) with hedgehog mushrooms. The weightless, delicate pasta accents the creamy texture of the liver – a standout!
Rich bone marrow with snails and gremolata ($17) is tasty, though the snails are a tad overcooked. The sauce is wonderful and slightly sweet making the perfect Scarpetta for the charred crostini. Octopus with semolina, apple and peanut ($20) seems like a strange combination, but works – the only advice is a little less parsley. Sweetbreads with sunchokes and romesco ($19) are creamy, earthy and on the edge of being acidic.
The last dish is a rich, satisfying slab of pork belly ($18) topped with fennel and crunchy cannellini beans is sumptuous and generously tender with a nicely crisp skin. I can’t wait to come back!