Skin + Bones 416.524.5209 www.skinandbonesto.com closed mon, dinner tues-sun
Warm and inviting, this room effortlessly exudes a welcoming charm. With a name like that one would never think trendy wine bar, but it is. I think the name plays on the restaurant’s menu, it’s locally sourced, rustic, farm-to-table. The softly lit room sounds with laughter and chatter. Servers are swift and knowledgeable. The kitchen shows promise.
The wine list is carefully selected and available to sample in 3oz and 6oz pours. And every few weeks the list refreshes and cycles through the Enomatic wine dispensing system. My picks for the evening include a juicy, red-berry, full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 by Seven Hills, Walla Walla, Washington. And a fragrant, lightly spiced Syrah lot 244 2009 from Cameron Huges, High Valley Lake County, California.
The baked-in-house bread is spongy with a crisp outer crust with a sliced of salty creamy butter is a knockout. Followed by a cheese plate consisting of Tiger Blue and poached pear, a subtle and creamy brie with sweet pickled carrots and radish, and a grainy and firm Comté served with a jammy plum spread ($18). Coarsely chopped beef tartare melts in the mouth dusted with Montfort Toscano, diced iceberg lettuce, and housemade fresh pickles ($13). Salt cured foie gras with fermented mushrooms, pickled date is just right, the addition of kumquat overpowers the dish ($11).
Fried potato with white wine, uni, and oyster cream sounds like a delight, however, turns out dry, briny, and unbalanced ($8). Finishing the evening with a brimming plate of seasoned crunchy chicken tails is a highlight. Fatty fried cubed potatoes balance flawlessly with grapefruit zest making the perfect “potato salad”($8).