416.477.3393 http://www.bero-restaurant.com/ wed –sat dinner only
Cozy doesn’t do it justice. Walking inside you’re right in the middle of the action, literally surrounded by softly lit tables and warm conversation. We are seated at a cute table beside the kitchen by a tall bookshelf overlooking the absolutely charming room. A small cocktail list makes it easy to select beverages: red wine brandy sangria and a gin martini. Bero has two options on their menu: a 4 course choose-your-own for $59 ($36 beverage pairing) and/or a 7 course chef’s set menu $94 ($56 beverage pairing). Servers are efficient and extremely helpful when selecting a bottle of wine.A fabulous Falesco, Tellus Syrah 2012 from Lazio Italy was recommended and pairs perfectly with the chef’s menu, because of its youth and notes of dark fruit.
Our amuse-bouche, ball of goat cheese sprinkled with Za’atar and olive oil, fails to amuse. And now the night begins. Hamachi salt cod, cured ham, chili – at first I thought why put potato with such a delicate fish? But then I take a bite and find textures work quite nicely together, especially the late hit of heat at the end. Foie gras torchon is creamy-sweet, paired with white concord grape jam and smoky ice cold peanut butter crumbs, makes for my favorite flavour combinations on the planet. Next, disappointing gnocchi taste gluey and so overwhelmed by garlic chips the tender snails cannot save this dish. Lightly smoked halibut is heighted by black sesame and silky smoked eggplant.
The 52-dry aged ribeye with crunchy quinoa and firm salsify is a strange but tasty dish; each element on the plate works only in combination with one another. I’ve never had a dish that works so perfectly together and so badly apart. Ossao iraty is another great combo of sweet, savory and floral fruit. The last course leaves me with a smile on my face and a memory on my tongue. Savarin wows with plum, lillet, crumbs, cool and warm flavours, followed by caramel – every tastebud in the mouth is lit up by the spectrum of flavours in this dish. A standout way to end the evening. And yes I will be back.