416.901.7667 https://twitter.com/soostoronto dinner tues-sun
Soos is the newest spot on the Ossington strip and its run by the Soos family. Great attention to detail has been paid in setting the mood at this Malaysian spot, which offers up a carefully chosen selection of fragrant dishes from the family’s kitchen. Unfalteringly gracious servers exude love for the dishes they serve, and the décor boasts warm red patterned wallpaper, large wood tables and a huge photo of an adorable orangutan. Even the back room has a long table for family-style dining. All of this sets Soos a notch above the city’s far too numerous shopworn and grungy Malaysian joints. The kitchens timing is flawless, each dish arriving exactly when it should.
Cocktails are created with 1.5 to 2.5oz in each and leave one feeling giggly happy; a slightly sour Nagasari $12 Tangueray gin, muddle dragon eyes, kaffir lime leaf and sparkling wine. Soo York Sour $11 is more tart than sour but lovely still – Canadian club rye, ginger syrup, lemon, red wine float.
It takes 3 days to make the house made prawn crackers – Keropok $6 – served with a buttery rich housemade peanut sauce that is so tasty I ordered it twice. Organic pork belly pancakes $10 in a sticky soy reduction with ginger chili and bok choy are presented on incredibly crisp potato cakes like tiny treasures.
Aromatic chicken Kapitan $6, wrapped in fluffy toasted tacos, sings to the senses with napa carrot slaw and johnny’s tzatziki. Laksa $15 flavoured by chicken, prawn, tofu ball galangal, mee and vermicelli in curry broth, hits with quickly with spice but cools immediately. A rare special of the evening is Nasi Lemak $10, delivering a thrillingly sweet and salty combination, coconut flavoured rice, anchovy paste imported from Malaysia and baby cucumber covered by a softly fried quail egg.