http://hopgoodsfoodliner.com/ (416) 533-2723 closed tues & wed $$$
I haven’t been to Hopgood’s since it’s opening, but when Chef Geoffrey Hopgood tweeted a picture of a mountain of Sea Urchin from Quebec it was like a moth to a flame. The first rule of food blogging is you never talk about any dish as the best dish you’ve ever had. However, this sea urchin was the best I’ve ever had. Not only is the presentation like a fresh breath of spring air, the flower petal texture and subtle floral flavour wrapped my tongue in sweet ecstasy. Mahogany clams which normally are rather briny exude a blissful, chewy buttercream flavour. The freshly house made molasses bread is a warm delight, slathered in fresh salted butter.
Though the menu is ambitious, not all items are well executed. Deep fried lobster, for example, reads deliciously, but most of the pieces are overcooked and heavily breaded and over-priced. Because I have a renewed love for this spot I must leave on a good note; fried beef tendon, so rich in chewy-sticky fat elevates an average beef heart tartare from a 4 to a 9.5.